“Spa” – it’s more than just a word; it’s a hobby, an indulgence, a pursuit of well-being that transcends the mundane necessities of life. It’s about dedicating time and resources to something purely for personal joy and rejuvenation. It’s an investment in yourself, a bourgeois pleasure that offers a sanctuary from the everyday grind. It’s not about societal contribution; it’s about personal enrichment and finding bliss in self-care.
For years, I’ve been on a personal quest to explore and experience the best spas, saunas, and wellness retreats. Consider it a self-assigned mission to uncover havens of relaxation, whether for personal enjoyment or as part of a dedicated exploration. This journey has led me to experience a range of establishments, from simple saunas to luxurious spa destinations.
Recently, the arrival of The Ritz-Carlton in Portland, a beacon of luxury downtown, marked a significant addition to the city’s upscale offerings. With the highly anticipated opening of its 19th-floor spa in mid-December, I knew I had to experience it firsthand. The promise of a new, top-tier spa experience was too enticing to ignore.
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The Ritz-Carlton Spa boasts an impressive array of amenities designed for ultimate relaxation. Guests can enjoy a steam room and sauna, invigorating cold showers, and tranquil relaxation areas. Access to these facilities is granted with any spa service for non-hotel guests, or through a $50-day pass for hotel residents.
The spa menu at The Ritz-Carlton is extensive, featuring 50-minute massages starting at $220, revitalizing facials from $220, holistic “Wellness Journeys” beginning at $365, and meticulous nail services starting at $70. Choosing any of these treatments unlocks access to the spa for the entire day. While nail appointments weren’t available at my preferred time, the abundance of massage slots made booking a 50-minute stress relief massage ($225) for a Thursday morning seamless.
It’s worth noting that my experience was arranged and paid for, and the Ritz-Carlton staff were aware of my role as a reporter. This context is important for transparency.
Stepping into The Ritz-Carlton is immediately a departure from my usual spa visits, like those to the Everett House. At Everett House, a local gem in Northeast Portland, a 60-minute massage is around $105, and spa time is a mere $35 for 90 minutes. Parking is simple street-side or bike-rack access.
However, The Ritz-Carlton experience begins with valet parking, the only option unless you seek a nearby garage. Street parking is impractical for the duration of a spa visit.
Embracing the full experience, I entrusted my car to the valet, stepping into the hotel’s grandeur. After a warm greeting at the front desk, a swift elevator ride to the 19th floor transported me to a different world.
Emerging from the elevator, I was enveloped in an atmosphere of serene luxury, a world away from the Portland cityscape. The spa’s design created an illusion of being in a sophisticated sanctuary, with expansive windows offering stylized city views framed by misty, tree-covered hills.
The Ritz-Carlton isn’t just “nice”; it’s a level of luxury that surpasses any other hotel in Portland, radiating pristine newness. Its very existence is a statement, built on the former site of the Southwest 10th and Alder food cart pod, a change that has sparked local debate.
Beyond the aesthetics, the development by Walter Bowen has faced scrutiny regarding affordable housing contributions and financial stability, especially amidst downtown Portland’s post-pandemic challenges.
These broader city questions linger – What is Portland becoming? A large town or a world-class city? A destination for global tourists or a haven for its residents? These are significant questions, but within the spa’s tranquil walls, it’s best to set aside worldly concerns and embrace the present moment of relaxation.
Entering the luminous Ritz-Carlton Spa, I consciously shifted my focus to the experience ahead, saving societal reflections for later.
Melissa Chafkar, the Spa Director, greeted me warmly at the reception. The area is positioned adjacent to a waiting lounge that overlooks downtown Portland and the Willamette River, with the hotel’s signature massive windows prominently featured.
Chafkar guided me through the relaxation area, complete with refreshments like snacks and lemon cucumber spa water, before leading me to the women’s locker room. Inside, a locker held a plush robe, towels, and sandals, prepared for my use.
The spa facilities are gender-segregated and located within the locker rooms. This design allows for sauna and steam room use without swimwear, a less preferred spa style for some, but necessitates towel or robe use in communal areas. Again, a contrast to Everett House’s more open, co-ed and often clothing-optional environment.
The Ritz-Carlton’s attention to detail is evident in the abundance of amenities. Spa water, towels, and cups are readily available. Vanity drawers are stocked with individually wrapped bamboo accessories like brushes, combs, and razors. Counters offer boxes of hair ties and Q-tips.
A thoughtful touch: iced washcloths infused with eucalyptus are provided for use in the sauna and steam room, enhancing the sensory experience.
Chafkar offered a choice of champagne or tea. Opting for tea, it arrived on a delicate tray, complete with a teapot and a single pink rose in a vase.
The locker room, like the rest of the spa, was impeccably clean and bright. After changing, I grabbed my book and some spa water, heading first to the dry sauna.
The sauna was spacious, and during my visit, I had it entirely to myself. Returning several times, I brought my book, water, tea, and later, a cool eucalyptus washcloth. One could easily spend hours alternating between the sauna’s warmth and a refreshing cold shower.
While I appreciate a sauna, steam rooms hold a special allure for me. At home, we enhance our sauna by adding water to the rocks for steam – a practice less common in Portland’s public saunas, though a tradition in other cultures.
The steam room at The Ritz-Carlton is truly impressive – large and remarkably quiet, especially compared to those at Knot Springs and Everett House.
Steam rooms aren’t conducive to reading, so it was in this tranquil space that I longed for company, imagining future visits with friends.
Post-steam and shower, I donned my robe, tea in hand, and proceeded to the communal relaxation area to await my massage.
Here, more spa water, coconut macaroons, and a gourmet trail mix with white chocolate and dried blueberries alongside nuts and cranberries were available. Once again, the room’s defining feature was its expansive windows, overlooking the city, foggy hills, and Lincoln High School.
After enjoying the refreshments, my massage therapist, JT, greeted me and led me to the massage room. This was far from a typical, overpriced hotel massage. While certainly an investment, it was among the best massages I’ve ever experienced. The attention to detail was exceptional, from the aromatic oils to the placement and ringing of a bell at the start and end of the session.
A unique feature was the adjustable massage table, designed for varying body types – a first for me, and a significant comfort enhancement when lying on my stomach.
The 50 minutes of bliss concluded too soon. Dressed and refreshed, I paid and briefly experienced the Mind-Sync chair, a vibrating meditation lounger. A spa attendant then provided a tour of the facilities, including the well-equipped gym (accessible to spa guests, not just hotel residents) and the exclusive hot tub and infinity pool, currently reserved for hotel guests and residents.
Is the 84-degree infinity pool alone worth the room rate of $500+ per night? Perhaps, for the ultimate indulgence.
Following the spa, I ascended to the 20th floor to Bellpine, the hotel restaurant, for a post-spa lunch. I chose a pumpkin bisque ($18) and side salad ($9). While options like a prime rib burger ($24) were available, the light pumpkin bisque with shrimp felt like the perfect spa-day meal.
It was indeed the right choice – light, delicious, and complemented by the unparalleled views.
The total cost for approximately four hours of opulent relaxation was $344.20, including valet parking, massage, food, and gratuities.
Was it worth it? If spending $350 of my own money on a spa day, I might lean towards Tacoma’s Olympus Spa, a women-only Korean spa with unique offerings not found in Portland. While less overtly luxurious, it boasts numerous pools (a Ritz-Carlton Spa element lacking) and an exceptional body scrub.
For routine spa visits in town, Everett House remains my go-to.
However, when the desire for a few hours of pure opulence strikes, The Ritz-Carlton is now on my radar. Perhaps a bus trip for a pedicure is in order.
Jeff Manning contributed to this report.
— Lizzy Acker
503-221-8052; [email protected]; @lizzzyacker
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