“It’s okay,” Keith, the driver, reassured me. “The rain will stop after we pass the forest.” And just as he predicted, it did. This was my introduction to the ever-changing, yet always captivating weather of Dominica, a gem in the Caribbean. From my cottage at Jungle Bay Resort And Spa, I watched the rain approach from the Atlantic, a dramatic spectacle that would often vanish as quickly as it arrived.
My journey to this island paradise began at the Melville airport, a small airstrip where my backpack was transferred alongside crates of chirping chicks. The air was warm, carrying a hint of the tropics, and the moon shone brightly before the rainforest drive began. As we navigated Dominica’s winding, unlit roads, the rain started, only to cease as quickly as it began, revealing a dry path forward to my destination: Jungle Bay Resort and Spa.
After a long travel day from New York, involving layovers and airport naps, arriving at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa felt like stepping into another world. What was meant to be a short Caribbean hop turned into a twenty-hour odyssey. The thought of the rum and airport pizza at Saint Martin couldn’t compare to the comfort of the homemade yogurt and roast pork tenderloin I had wisely packed.
When I mentioned my birthday and holiday trip to friends, many mistakenly assumed I was heading to the Dominican Republic. I clarified that Dominica, pronounced Dom-in-EE-ka, not Dom-in-i-can, is nestled between Guadeloupe and Martinique. Surprisingly, this unspoiled island remains under the radar for many, even those from New York, who I later found myself sharing stories with at the resort.
The dimly lit roads reminded me of Tanzania, where life on the roadside only flickered into view with passing headlights. The driving style, reminiscent of the courteous Filipino drivers, added to the unique charm. En route, Keith presented the restaurant menu, and while sipping a refreshing passionfruit welcome drink, I pre-ordered my first dinner. Finally, after two hours, I arrived at my cottage at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa, ready for a well-deserved meal of callalloo soup, watercress and cucumber salad, and pan-seared tuna. The outdoor shower connected to my room offered a refreshing cleanse before I succumbed to the king-sized bed, enveloped in a mosquito net, lulled to sleep by the sound of Stony Beach’s waves. A lunar eclipse was happening somewhere beyond the clouds, but as soon as I settled in, the rain began to pour again, a soothing Caribbean lullaby.
My internal clock, ever-reliable, woke me moments before my scheduled wake-up call. Yoga was on the agenda. I met Nancy, the person who expertly arranged my stay at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa, in the open-air yoga room, along with five other early risers. Nancy, originally from Switzerland and now part of the Jungle Bay family, had made booking my solo trip effortless, assuring me of both solitude and connection. I soon learned Dominica is renowned as one of the safest Caribbean destinations for women traveling alone.
The yoga session was thankfully geared towards beginners, a welcome relief as it had been a while since my last class. Post-yoga, feeling invigorated, I climbed the 200 steps back to my cottage, showered, and laced up my hiking boots. Breakfast at the resort’s Pavillion Restaurant was a quick affair before joining two families, Sam Raphael, the owner of Jungle Bay Resort and Spa, and his two children, Ade and Jai, for a hike through Perdu Temps. Brother, another staff member, also joined us as our guide.
The hike unfolded on a beautiful day, following trails once used by Dominica’s runaway slaves, leading through the forest and up to Pomme’s “paradise.” Pomme, a local icon, lives with his family high in the mountains, embracing a truly sustainable lifestyle. Their food comes directly from the land, water from a nearby stream, and waste returns to the earth. Pomme embodies organic living in its purest form.
The forest canopy provided a welcome respite from the sun. We crossed streams, one thigh-deep, requiring boot removal. Dominica’s generous rainfall meant moss-covered rocks made the downhill sections challenging. Brother, our guide, paused to pluck fresh oranges and grapefruits, carved cinnamon bark to reveal the spice, and gifted me a fresh nutmeg. We saw abundant dashin plants, a local staple resembling taro, alongside banana, mango, avocado, and mangosteen trees. Towering bamboo swayed in the breeze, a sight I hadn’t encountered elsewhere in the Caribbean or Central America. In open valleys, verdant mountains rose majestically. The lushness evoked Kauai in Hawaii, and at times, the landscapes felt straight out of Avatar.
Pomme’s wife and daughter welcomed us with a feast of mashed pumpkin, whole wheat bake (similar to johnnycakes), and roasted breadnuts. While others toured Pomme’s gardens, I joined Ade by the stream to refill my water bottle with incredibly fresh spring water. Dominica is the thirtieth country I’ve visited in a decade, and only Patagonia rivaled its pristine, drinkable water sources. Not worrying about water on our hikes was a true gift of this nature-blessed island.
Back at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa by 3 pm, I showered and prepared for the evening, wisely packing everything needed to avoid the uphill trek to my cottage until bedtime. I settled by the pool, even managing a nap despite the joyful squeals of children in the water. The Caribbean sun had worked its magic. Awakening, I wandered to the ocean cabana, mesmerized by the waves crashing against the rocks. Only falling palm fruits, signaling an approaching wind, drew me away from my hammock.
Dusk arrived by 6 pm, and I headed to the spa for my first of seven massages scheduled for my stay at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa. The spa’s open windows framed the ocean, making background music unnecessary. The warm breeze and wave sounds were profoundly relaxing. The therapists were expertly trained, maintaining gentle contact even while reaching for more massage oil, a subtle reassurance. It had been six months since my Kilimanjaro trek and last proper massage, so I emerged feeling like Jell-O, utterly renewed.
Dinner at the restaurant followed, where I joined Sam’s family. Famished, I devoured cod fritters, fish soup, and tuna – the menu focused on seafood and chicken with ample vegetarian options – followed by fresh coconut and guava sorbets. I opted for a week of teetotaling until my birthday celebration. Throughout my stay at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa, Sam and his family made me feel genuinely welcome. Joining them for meals and post-dinner conversations became natural. By day three, hugs with Joanne, the kitchen manager, were customary. As the week progressed, our dinner table expanded, welcoming new arrivals. By departure, even the tour guides and drivers were part of the hug-filled farewell.
What was this place where solitude and connection intertwined so seamlessly? It was Dominica, and my unforgettable vacation at Jungle Bay Resort and Spa had only just begun.