Mermaid Spa in Coney Island, New York, offers an authentic Russian banya experience, far removed from the modern, trendy spas found elsewhere in the city. This traditional Ukrainian-Russian community center, a brisk 20-minute walk from the subway, prioritizes the time-honored practice of sweating. Mermaid Spa caters to a clientele that takes their sauna rituals seriously, providing a truly immersive cultural experience. A full-service restaurant serving classic Russian dishes complements the spa experience.
The dining area, adorned with golden mermaid statues, centers around a hot tub. Here, patrons in towels and felt hats, designed to withstand the intense heat, relax and socialize. Groups of older men, younger men, and couples enjoy the convivial atmosphere, often with a beer in hand. Once you’ve claimed a table for the day, the sauna awaits. The intense heat pushes you to your limits, after which you can escape to the invigorating cold shower. A pull of the chain releases a torrent of ice water, providing a stark and refreshing contrast to the sauna’s heat.
Next, immerse yourself in the dense fog of the steam room before taking a plunge into the icy pools. The shock of the cold leaves you gasping for breath, your head pounding with a mix of shock and relief. This cycle of extreme heat and cold is repeated until you’re thoroughly relaxed and ready for a meal. While many opt for refreshing platters of fresh fruit and water, the restaurant at Mermaid Spa offers a hearty menu of traditional Russian cuisine. Large meat dishes like lamb leg, beef stroganoff, and chicken tabaka are available, but the hot appetizers are perhaps more suitable for the post-sauna setting.
The rich and thick borscht is a must-try. Garlicky French fries, served on a sizzling skillet, are a banya staple, albeit an unexpected one in a bathing suit environment. Even more traditional are the pelmeni, dumplings filled with a mixture of beef, lamb, and veal, and smothered in a savory mushroom gravy. These are incredibly addictive until they cool, but luckily, they’re too delicious to leave uneaten for long. The cold appetizers, however, truly shine. Pickled herring is a popular choice, but for the adventurous, salo, thin slices of frozen raw pig lard, is a unique delicacy.
The ritual of eating salo is a sensory experience in itself. A thin slice is layered onto brown bread and sprinkled with salt. A raw garlic clove, also salted, accompanies the salo. The combination of the pungent garlic, the sweetness of the bread, and the melting fat creates a surprisingly harmonious and invigorating flavor. It’s an experience even more bracing than the ice pools. After your spa day, take a stroll to the nearby beach. The winter quietude of the vast, empty coastline offers a unique and often overlooked charm. The steam rising from your skin as you walk along the shore provides a final, peaceful touch to your Mermaid Spa experience.